Jewellery Guide

The 4 C's are the 

CLARITY

CUT

COLOUR

CARAT

A Clarity grade is applied to a diamond based on the number, size and position of naturally occurring inclusions and blemishes present in and on the diamond. A diamond inclusion is an internal diamond characteristic and a blemish is external.

Grading the Clarity of a diamond involves determining the number, size and position of the inclusions or blemishes along with how those characteristics affect the overall appearance of the diamond.

The Clarity is one of the key measurements of a diamonds value. The less inclusions or blemishes present in a diamond, the higher the Clarity grade applied to the diamond.

The scale which is used to grade diamond Clarity was created by the Gemmological Institute of America (GIA). This scale helped to standardise the way diamonds are graded across the world.

Almost all diamonds have some inclusions present but there are some out there which don’t have any inclusions. They’re called Flawless diamonds but those diamonds are so rare many experienced jewellers will never have seen one.

What causes inclusions?

As natural diamonds are exposed to intense heat and pressure while they form under the earth’s crust, small imperfections form. These imperfections or inclusions are like birthmarks to the diamond and give each diamond its own uniqueness. When you hear people say ‘no two diamonds are the same’ this is because of the inclusions. Even two diamonds with the same Clarity grade won’t have the same number, size and position of inclusions.

While Lab Grown diamonds aren’t created under the earth’s crust they do still require intense heat and pressure to grow. For this reason, they will also have inclusions in the same way a natural diamond will. They are also graded by the same scale.

The Grading Scale

Diamond Clarity is graded on a scale from FL to I3. Diamonds with a higher grade are rarer which makes those more valuable and higher in cost.

Diamond Clarity

The diamonds we offer here at Angelic Diamonds range from VVS1 to I1 Clarity.

Diamonds graded VS2 and over will often be referred to as ‘eye-clean’ as you won’t see any inclusions visible to the naked eye.

The Grades

VVS1

Very very slight inclusions - Diamonds rated VVS1 do not have any visible inclusions even under 10 x magnifications. An excellent quality diamond

VVS2

Very very slight inclusions - Diamonds rated VVS2 barely have any visible inclusions that are very difficult to see under 10 x magnifications

VS1

Very slightly included – Diamonds rated VS1 will have very minor inclusions barely visible under 10 x magnification. A high quality diamond

VS2

Very slightly included – Diamonds rated VS2 will have minor inclusions only visible under 10 x magnification.

SI1

Slightly included - Diamonds rated SI1 have inclusions that are visible under 10 x magnification but are mostly clean to the naked eye. SI1 clarity diamonds offer very good value for money

SI2

Slightly included - Diamonds rated SI2 have inclusions clearly visible under 10 x magnification and likely visible to the naked eye.

I1

Included 1 - Diamonds rated I1 will have inclusions clearly visible to the naked eye. They do however offer incredible value for people that don’t mind the presence of inclusions in a diamond.

Choosing your diamond's Clarity

In most cases, the clarity grade you choose will come down to both personal preference and budget. We say personal preference as there are customers that don’t mind some visible inclusions, they are what make your diamond unique. Having said this, most customers do prefer their diamond without any inclusions visible to the naked eye.

For customers who don’t wish to see any inclusions to the naked eye we always recommend VS2 Clarity as a minimum for diamonds up to 1.00ct. For diamonds over 1.00ct we would recommend VS1 Clarity as a minimum for an eye clean diamond.

For diamonds with a large open table, like the Emerald and Asscher, the shape of those diamonds will highlight any imperfections so we would always recommend opting for VS1 and above.

To put it simply, Cut determines how much a diamond will sparkle!

How well a diamond is cut influences how much light can pass through it, and therefore its brilliance, dispersion and scintillation (sparkle).

What do those words mean?

Brilliance is the white light reflection from the inside and surface of a diamond.

Dispersion, also known as fire, refers to the flashes of different colours of the rainbow refracted from a diamond.

Scintillation is the flashes of light you see when a diamond is moved. It is the contrast between the darker and lighter areas (the sparkle).

Diamond Cut is not to be confused with Diamond Shape.

The Cut is how well the diamond has been fashioned from the original rough stone.

The Shape is the outline of the diamond. Shape provides you with options like that of Round which you are probably a little more familiar with as well as Princess, Oval, Marquise and other Fancy Shapes also.

At Angelic Diamonds we offer three different cut grades for Round Brilliant Diamonds... let’s dive into what those are a little deeper.

Diamond Cut

Excellent/Ideal Cut

Excellent Cut diamonds are the best cut available.

Diamonds in the Excellent Cut classification are precisely fashioned and perfectly proportioned to create maximum brilliance, dispersion and sparkle. They reflect the maximum amount of light that enters the diamond.

Excellent Cut is very rare, this class represents the top 3% of all diamonds in the world, and for this reason they do command a premium price.

If sparkle is the most important thing for you we would recommend Excellent Cut.

Very good cut

Very Good Cut diamonds are barely distinguishable from Excellent Cut to the naked eye.

They do come at a lower price therefore offering fantastic value for money.

They reflect almost all the light out of the diamond.

If you opt for Very Good Cut you will be selecting a diamond that is in the top 15% in the world.

Very Good offers an ideal middle ground. For example, if you want to get a nice mix of all selections across the board, we normally recommend VS2 Clarity, F Colour and Very Good Cut. This offers great selections all-round without having to go for the highest and most expensive.

Good cut

Good Cut diamonds reflect a good amount of light.

They still provide a high degree of sparkle from the diamond. Good Cut diamonds will not look dull, they will still sparkle, just not as much so as Very Good or Excellent Cut for example.

They offer fantastic value for money without having to make major compromises to a diamonds appearance.

Good Cut diamonds are still in the very top 25% of diamonds in the world.

This class could be a good option for yourself if you are working to a particular budget, or if you prefer to go higher with other selections like that of Clarity and Colour.

We don’t source any diamonds lower than Good Cut.

Fair Cut and Poor Cut

Fair Cut diamonds maintain some sparkle but considerably less than Good Cut.

Poor Cut diamonds loose most of their light out the sides and bottom of the diamond therefore have very poor sparkle.

These diamonds have very little brilliance, dispersion and sparkle and are less visually appealing.

For these reasons these are not cut grades we sell or would recommend. They will not make sparkling jewellery or adhere to the high quality standard that we offer here at Angelic Diamonds.

Diamond Cut Examples

The Cut mentioned so far is in relation to how well diamonds are proportioned. It is worth noting that fundamentally there are two different types of Cut and that is why some diamonds look and sparkle differently.

What do the terms Brilliant Cut and Step Cut mean?

Brilliant Cut is the most common style for cutting diamonds, with the original and most well known of these being the Round Brilliant Cut. Fashioned from the Round Brilliant Cut there then came Modified Brilliant Cuts like that of Princess, Marquise and Heart.

The Round Brilliant Cut consists of 58, triangular shaped facets for optimum sparkle and maximum brilliance and fire.

Most other Fancy Shape Brilliant Cut diamonds consist of around 56-58 facets also, the Radiant Cut usually consists of 70 facets.

What is a facet?

A diamond facet, or face, is a flat surface on a diamond. Every shape and cut diamond has multiple facets, these are what allows a diamond to absorb, reflect and refract light.

With Step Cut diamonds the facets are elongated and placed in rows.

Examples of Step Cut would be Emerald and Asscher shapes. Some styles, like Cushion, are a mixture of both; these are called mixed cuts.

Each cutting style has its own unique style and light-reflecting properties.

Step Cut diamonds do still sparkle, just in a slightly different way. They are slightly simpler in presentation offering a less cluttered look.

One thing to keep in mind with Step Cut diamonds is that inclusions can appear more obvious. Essentially, there is a larger, plain surface on the top (table) of the diamond. There is more clear space to see inclusions.

Emerald diamonds usually consist of 57 facts and Asscher diamonds around 50-58.

Polish and Symmetry

The 4 C’s are the main things to consider when looking at and buying a diamond. This is why you have the choice of these online.

Other specifications, like that of Fluorescence, Polish and Symmetry, are important also.

We always source each and every customer the best diamond that is available. We have minimum grades that we source and adhere to for the above selections. If you have specific requirements or would like to guarantee any grades for Fluorescence, Polish and Symmetry please get in touch and we can always look to source a diamond that meets these for you.

You can find out all about Fluorescence here,

Polish is the overall smoothness and condition of diamonds facets

Symmetry is the arrangement of diamonds facets

Polish and Symmetry do influence the stones cut grade which we know by now affects and can create brilliance, dispersion and scintillation.

When diamond facets are balanced well and aligned, the stone has Symmetry.

You can see some flaws in diamond symmetry below. Poor Symmetry, for example an off centre table, may reduce diamond sparkle.

diamond symmetry

After the cutting process has occurred, every facet must be polished.

If scratches or polish lines remain, this can affect light performance and obtain a lower Polish Grade.

A poor grade for Polish can make the diamond appear slightly blurred or dull. If there are no scratches, lines or burn marks, or very minor ones, this can mean a higher Polish Grade. Higher Polish grades can help obtain the maximum sparkle for your diamond.

Why can’t you see a Cut grade for Fancy Shape diamonds like that of Princess, Oval and Pear?

It is only Round diamonds that are graded by Cut. They are in principle easier to measure in terms of light reflection, refraction and therefore performance.

The Gemmological Institute of America, which is the largest and most reputable diamond grading lab in the world, currently state that:

‘An internationally accepted system for visually evaluating the appearance of fancy-cut diamonds does not exist at this time. At GIA, research is underway to develop the basic concepts for designing and implementing such a system’.

https://www.gia.edu/gia-faq-analysis-grading-system-fancy-shape-diamond

At Angelic Diamonds we always source the best diamond there is available to meet your specifications. In terms of dimensions we operate within certain parameters, ratios and proportions for Fancy Shape diamonds that would class them as the equivalent to Very Good/Excellent grades.

Is Cut the most important ‘C’?

You will find a lot of people that say that Cut is 100% the most important specification to consider when choosing a diamond. Really, there is no right or wrong answer.

The way we see it is that you have to choose what is right for you. If sparkle is the most important thing for yourself then it will be best to go for a higher Cut over a higher Colour grade for example. Each selection is equally important and things like getting the best diamond overall, as well as what budget will allow, have to be considered.

Diamond Carat is the term used to determine the weight of a diamond.

One Carat = 0.20 grams or 200 milligrams

Carat is also often referred to as 'points' where 1 point equals 0.01 carat.

So a 0.50 carat diamond would be referred to as a 50 pointer

Carat weight is abbreviated to ‘ct’

Carat is a measurement of weight, it should be noted it is not a measurement of size. However, carat is usually relative to size so the higher the carat the larger the stone.

This does not mean though that every diamond of same carat will be exactly the same size. For example, two 0.50 carat stones can be slightly different sizes.

The cut and shape proportions of a diamond can affect the size of one diamond compared to another. We can always provide some approximate or average measurements for every shape diamond in every carat size.

Use our interactive diamond size guide to get a better view on how different diamond shapes and weights will look. You can also view more information on each diamond with the menu button on the left.

 Diamond Carat and Shape

The shape and cut of a diamond or gemstone plays a part in determining how large a stone is, or appears.

For example, an elongated shape, such as an Oval may appear larger than a rounded shape like that of a Cushion even if the two stones are the same carat weight. This is because it covers more of the finger.

Opting for elongated shapes like that of Oval, Marquise and Emerald stones may be a good idea if you are looking to utilise a diamond carat. They are also extremely popular for people with longer, more slender fingers as they pair with that really nicely too.

When choosing diamond carat, don’t forget to consider the ring size too!

A 1 carat diamond is going to look a lot larger on a size J finger than on a size Q finger.

Factors like the wearer, and proportionally how that is going to look need to be considered also.

Equally, does the wearer like jewellery that stands out, or would they prefer a more understated look?

Diamond Carat and Price

Diamond carat has the largest effect on price and there can be significant price difference between carat sizes.

In general, doubling the size of a diamond can often cost three to four, sometimes even six, times more. Diamond prices increased exponentially not in a linear way.

If specifications like clarity and colour are equal, a one carat diamond will cost more than a 0.97 ct diamond or a 0.91 ct diamond. However, if the specifications are not equal, it is possible that a one carat diamond will cost less than a 0.91 ct diamond for example.

It is important to consider whether size is most important for yourself, or quality, or if you would like a happy medium of both. For example a lot of people do just want to go for size and go for 1 or 1.20 carat. They are then happy to go with I1 and H selections as they do not mind the visible inclusions and a slight hint of yellow because they are getting the size they desire. Other people prefer a happy medium across the board and opt for selections like that of 0.50 ct, VS2, F and Very Good meaning the diamond is still a really good size and of excellent quality. This is why decisions vary from person to person and there is no right or wrong answer.

Lab Grown Diamonds, in general, enable people to get better all round selections for the 4 C’s as they command a lower price. You can read more on Lab Grown Diamonds here.

If you are not wanting to budge on quality but your jewellery piece is falling a little over budget, carat is a good option to move on. It has the most impact on price but visually, it is very hard to tell the difference between stones that vary around 5-10% in weight.

You can often save money by choosing a diamond that is around 0.10 carat less than the popular sizes. Certain diamond sizes, like that of 0.50, 1 and 2 carat, are highly sought after. A 0.90 carat and a 1 carat round diamond have around 0.25mm between them. They’ll appear almost identical in size but won’t carry the same price tag. The difference is barely distinguishable side by side and even less so, in a ring, on the hand.

How Carat is displayed

You should always pay attention to the way carat is displayed. For solitaire rings for example there is only one diamond in the ring so the carat shown and that you select is for that diamond only.

Side Stone rings are a derivative of this and are named online as ‘Solitaire with Side Stones’, so they are displayed in the same way. You are choosing the weight for the solitaire and then we add on the weight for the side stones. For all side stones rings the side stone carat is separate and can be found in the product description.

For Halo and Three Stone rings, as well as some other designs like a pair of earrings, it is the diamond total that is displayed or T.C.W (total carat weight). If you are unsure of how a piece of jewellery is shown please don’t hesitate to get in touch. We will be more than happy to confirm and to provide any breakdowns required if it is the total carat you are looking at.

Final things to note...

Certain settings can make a diamond look larger, for example Halo rings.

The contrast from the centre diamond to the smaller diamonds in the Halo can skew perspective and make the centre stone appear greater in size. Sometimes, when there is a minimal gap between the centre stone and the smaller stones in the halo and they are of matching selections, it can look just like one stone altogether!

Band width can affect the look of a diamonds carat also. A thinner, 1.8mm band will make the diamond look larger than a 3mm band for example.

A taper on the rings band can also affect how a diamond and its carat are seen. A taper, which is where the band gets thinner as it leads up to the diamond, can give the illusion that the stone is larger, compared to a band that remains the same width all the way around.

Carat tends to have the most impact visually on a diamond of the 4 C’s.

It does always come down to what you prefer. Would you prefer to have a larger carat and compromise on other selections or go for the opposite of this?

Most people do chose to select carat first, and then see what other selections fit into their budget. But there is no right or wrong way. Some people want their quality guaranteed first and then see what carat can work for them.

To stay within budget, as you increase carat, you may need to decrease your other selections. Equally, if you increase clarity and colour for example, you may need to move the carat lower a little.

What does the Colour grade mean?

Diamond colour refers to the lack of colour present in the diamond, therefore its whiteness.

Colour appears in a diamond as a pale yellow or brown. This is because of the presence of nitrogen when the diamond is formed.

A grading scale from D to Z is used to grade the lack of colour in a diamond.

Diamonds with a higher colour grade are rarer and more valuable than a diamond with a lower colour grade.

Diamond Colour

This scale was created by the Gemmological Institute of America (GIA). GIA are one of the largest and most respected diamond grading labs in the world. Their Colour scale is also the most universally accepted.

We offer diamonds with a grading of D to H. Diamonds with a colour grade of D – F will be white/colourless diamonds. There is very little difference between colours D, E and F and those differences are usually only visible to a professional gemmologist but the grade does affect the value of the diamond.

Colours G to H will both have a slight hint of yellow to the diamond. That hint of yellow is difficult to see without comparing the diamond, side by side, with a whiter diamond.

Which Colour grade is right for you?

When it comes to choosing the colour of your diamond there are a few different factors to consider. Your budget will almost always be one factor to consider along with how important the grade is to you.

Some customers don’t mind a slight hint of yellow showing in the diamond so a colour H graded diamond would work for them. For many customers though, a white/colourless diamond is vital and for this we would recommend colour F as a minimum.

It’s also important to remember when buying a larger diamond, over 1.00ct, any hint of yellow to the diamond will become more obvious.

What we recommend

When it comes to the colour of a diamond we always recommend colour F as a minimum. This grade offers a good value for money without compromise as you will have a white/colourless diamond.

Factoring in the metal colour of your ring is also important as this can affect the appearance of your diamond. If you are choosing a yellow gold solitaire setting you could lower the colour grade as yellow gold settings will complement diamonds with a lower colour grading. This can also be the case with rose gold ring settings, not quite to the same extent though.

Where a customer is choosing a ring design which has shoulder diamonds or a Halo design then we would recommend sticking with a colour F as a minimum. This is because the smaller diamonds in the shoulders or halo of all of our rings are colour F as standard and those bright white diamonds will make the hint of a yellow in a G or H diamond more obvious.

Lab Grown diamonds are often referred to as engineered diamonds, cultured diamonds, man-made diamonds or synthetic diamonds also.

Natural diamonds are created over millions of years beneath the Earth's crust, whereas Lab Grown diamonds, as their name suggest, are created in labs. 

They are created using advanced technological processes that mimic the conditions under which diamonds naturally develop.

Lab Grown diamonds start life as tiny carbon seeds, which come from pre-existing diamonds. Using extreme heat and pressure the diamonds are grown.

Lab created diamonds are real diamonds and are nearly impossible to differentiate from natural diamonds. Only a gemmologist using specialist equipment can distinguish them, they will be able to see the minor difference in trace elements and crystal growth which differentiate the two.

When side by side, a Lab Grown diamond will look identical to a Natural diamond of similar specifications.

Since Lab Grown diamonds are identical and made of the same material as Natural diamonds, they exhibit the same sparkle and dazzle as their natural counterparts. 

Lab Grown diamonds are not flawless; they adhere to the 4Cs of Cut, Clarity, Colour and Carat just like Natural diamonds.

Lab Grown diamonds should not be confused with Cubic Zirconia or Moissanite which are simulants. These are not true carbon crystals and therefore do not possess the same physical or chemical properties as diamonds.

Simulants can be distinguished from Lab Grown and Natural diamonds to the naked eye

Apart from their origin and price no there is no difference. 

Lab Grown diamonds are identical to Natural Grown diamonds and have the same chemical properties.

They are chemically and optically identical.

There are huge costs in mining Natural Diamonds whereas the costs of producing Lab grown diamonds are significantly cheaper. 

This results in an ability to pass on that saving to customers and you will find Lab Diamonds up to 30% cheaper than the natural diamond equivalent. 

The world became aware of the trade of Conflict diamonds in the late 1990’s.

Conflict diamonds refers to the trade of Natural Diamonds to fund rebel fighters and insurgencies against legitimate governments. 

The Kimberley Process was established in 2003. It is an international certification scheme which regulates the trade of rough diamonds to eliminate the flow of conflict diamonds and protect the legitimate trade of rough diamonds.

Lab Diamonds being produced in a totally different environment are therefore Conflict Free. 

In general, yes, Lab Grown diamonds are seen as the more ethical choice.

Natural diamonds are mined, creating large deep holes into the earth, some of the largest holes ever dug! This process requires an immense amount of fossil fuels. 

With Lab Grown,there is no mining so no harm to the environment. It is also easy to get full clarity on the supply chain, in regards to human rights and working conditions, and to know exactly where they have come from.

Lab Grown diamonds do still have to be cut and polished by a human though and humans will always have to be involved at some stages so the human element cannot be disregarded altogether. Lab Grown diamonds also require significant energy to produce and it is crucial that both Lab Grown and Natural diamond industries work towards more sustainable practices.

A diamond certificate or grading report is proof that your diamond has been examined by a professional gemmologist with specialised equipment at an independent lab.

The certificate will list a number of characteristics about the diamond. This will include the dimensions, Carat Weight, Clarity and Colour.

There can be such subtle differences between diamonds with different grades that it becomes impossible to see those differences to the naked eye, however, those subtle differences can impact the value of the diamond greatly.

GIA and IGI labs are widely recognised to the most prestigious and respected independent laboratories in the world.

It must be noted not all laboratories are as strict as GIA and IGI. It is generally accepted by professionals in the jewellery industry that GIA and IGI set the standard when it comes to diamond grading. This is why GIA and IGI certified diamonds tend to be sold at a higher price than others.

A diamond without a certificate effects the future value so it is important that you keep the diamond certificate safe. 

Every Diamond we sell comes with a Belasis SDC (Standard Diamond Certificate) which is available for individual diamonds of 0.50ct and over. 

We use a number of independent labs for our Belasis SDC diamond certification.

We also offer IGI (International Gemological Institute) for lab grown certified diamonds.

Those certificates are available for individual diamonds of 0.30ct and over.

GIA and IGI labs are widely recognised to the most prestigious and respected independent laboratories in the world.

It must be noted not all laboratories are as strict as GIA and IGI. It is generally accepted by professionals in the jewellery industry that GIA and IGI set the standard when it comes to diamond grading. This is why GIA and IGI certified diamonds tend to be sold at a higher price than others.